Another way to think about catching good waves is to understand that some waves just weren’t meant to be ridden. That’s right, the wind or storm that created them, coupled with the bottom contour of the beach where they eventually break, didn’t give them the combined characteristics to make them worth riding.
Successful surfers I have trained rarely fall-off their surfboards. Their attitude is something like “falling is like sinning”. They don’t want to do it and are highly motivated to successfully ride their waves for their full functional length.
Working on all areas of surfing, by focusing on them one at a time, is a proven way to develop the whole performance.
I believe he is, looking at the evidence. With 11x world championships to this date, with him almost snatching his twelfth in the Pipeline Pro in late 2013.
I believe so, by the amount of time and effort surfers put into their training. In many cases, far too much time in my view.
You see, many champion surfers before they made their mark in the sport, were good at other sports.