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From my observations, and after two days of practise at the surf ranch done by the surfer, I came up with a formula [or pattern] for both waves that would create solid scores if the surfer adhered to these patterns.
Better surfing just doesn’t happen, it takes focus and perseverance, as amongst the successes a surfer experiences along the way, frequent failures are also all too real.
Talent is a gift from our parents. Skill is learned and created though deliberate practise. Skill is often more elusive than talent, as skill is earned.
The reality of the training process is that it can be a hard with lots of frustrations, but for those surfers that persist, when success becomes more common, those frustrations turn into joy and a sense of achievement. Working on your surfing can be FUN for those who really want to be the best they can be.
Surfers will simply not try to finish their waves because of their learned experience that says – “Don’t even try to finish, you won’t make it”
