Did you know that the beach that you regularly surf significantly contributes to the surfer you become. As a result of this home beach “conditioning effect", surfers become strong in some areas of their performances and not others.
A lot of surfers have the limitation of not being able to bend or crouch with ease. This is particularly true for taller surfers. This can be caused by lack of use or past injury to the ankles, knees, hips or lower spine. Lack of use or previous injury leads to mobility and strength deficits.
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From my observations, and after two days of practise at the surf ranch done by the surfer, I came up with a formula [or pattern] for both waves that would create solid scores if the surfer adhered to these patterns.
Better surfing just doesn’t happen, it takes focus and perseverance, as amongst the successes a surfer experiences along the way, frequent failures are also all too real.
Talent is a gift from our parents. Skill is learned and created though deliberate practise. Skill is often more elusive than talent, as skill is earned.
The reality of the training process is that it can be a hard with lots of frustrations, but for those surfers that persist, when success becomes more common, those frustrations turn into joy and a sense of achievement. Working on your surfing can be FUN for those who really want to be the best they can be.